While in the lull that is this time of year on the fashion calendar, I began pondering what Im looking forward to in the coming fashion month and heres what sprang to mind: Something exciting and groundbreaking. Hmm, I thought, who will provide this for me? And naturally I mentally went straight to Dior Couture (eventhough we’re heading into a RTW month), which led me straight to John Galliano which led me straight to writing this post. Why? Because I miss him and the fashion world seems to have a gaping hole without his creations to fill them. Yes, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and JP Gaultier fill some of the void, but as Galliano could never replace each of them, in turn, the cannot replace John Galliano.
Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood & Jean Paul Gaultier
Now, before anyone starts commenting about how awful he is and his anti semitic slurs and drunken racist tirades, yes, I hear you & No, I don’t think it’s ok or cool at all and I certainly disagree with what he was waffling on about. But reality aside for a few minutes, now we can move on.
So as I was saying, I miss him. Again, why? Well mainly because no one does Couture quite like Galliano and no one does opulence like Galliano. He really is the true meaning of a designer, someone who can create enormously over the top gowns, that cascade elegantly down the female form, like they were a part of her. Galliano’s shows for Dior were exactly that, shows. They were extravaganza’s of excessiveness, celebrating all that was creative, unique and beautiful. Without him at Dior, we have seen a more conservative (only by means of comparison) offering via Raf Simons, which is just as beautiful, but in a more refined and restrained manner, that sits at the opposite end of Galliano on the fashion scale.
A Galliano couture gown & one of Raf Simons debut couture gowns
John Galliano was the first British designer to head up a French fashion house in Givenchy in 1995, but was soon thereafter moved over to Dior, which he led from 1996-2011. His creations for the French house were awe inspiring , meticulous in their structure and helped bring Dior into the modern fashion climate. His limitless imagination soared when producing Couture collections, which he did consistently with ease, creating gowns that seemed to be something of mere magic. While I always did love his Ready To Wear, I couldn’t help but feel there was restraint in them, an involuntary restraint that was visibly set free when one of his Couture pieces walked down the runway. Have a peruse of some of his history at Dior, and maybe you’ll see why I think the fashion world misses John Galliano…
Ready to Wear
Fall 2005 RTW
Spring 2006 RTW
Fall 2006 RTW
Fall 2007 RTW
Fall 2007 RTW
Spring 2008 RTW
Fall 2008 RTW
Fall 2009 RTW
Spring 2010 RTW
Fall 2010 RTW
Spring 2011 RTW
Fall 2011 RTW, John Galliano’s last collection for Dior
And now, his Couture…
Off the runway…
And the man himself…
Sadly, John Galliano made a foolish mistake in todays “someones always watching” world when going on a drunken Anti Semitic rant in a Paris bar, which lucky for him, was being filmed by British newspaper, The Sun, who consequentially ran the video on their website prior to Paris Fashion Week. For this, he was asked to stand down from his role as Head Designer at Christian Dior, a house in which he created a legacy over the last 15 years. He has paid the highest penalty for committing the highest crime, and now seeks forgiveness in the eyes of the world and those who he offended.
A dark cloud hung in the atmosphere at his last show for Dior, to which he was not invited. Tim Blanks of Style.com wrote this of that day:
“Overtaken by events, this ready-to-wear show ended up as a swan song, but it was a pale testament to the extraordinary work the ateliers have done for Galliano over the past 14 years. The proper tribute would ideally have been one of the Dior couture shows, where the extravagant drama of the designer’s soaring imagination was evenly matched by breathtaking workmanship. Still, there was enough of that symbiosis between creator and atelier to give today’s opening outfits some oomph”
Early 2012, Oscar De La Renta, with the help of Anna Wintour, invited Galliano to join him in preparation for his 2013 Fall RTW collection, to which Galliano accepted. After the show finale, Galliano remained quietly behind the scenes without even as much as a peek around the corner, a humble step backward for the usually extravagant showman. So where to from here for the man, we don’t know as yet, but as long as theres is possibility of his return to creation, I will eagerly sit and wait…
Images: Style .com, whisty.wordpress, susantabek.com, the fashion spot, fashion court.com, happydillettante, ldnfashion.com, carolineinvancity.com, parlourmagazine.co.uk, plurk.com, smh.com.au, fashionologie, demeterclarc.com, forbes.com, coolspotters.com, froufrouleblu,